This was shared here last year and was excellent. Relevant to this discussion: https://www.josefprusa.com/articles/open-hardware-in-3d-prin...

Have been keeping an eye on this. Hoping they’ll add the A1 family at some point.

Can anyone in the commentariat recommend a great, locally available adhesive in Japan? Vision Miner is import-only and pricey. I’ve been using glue-sticks but am ready to level up as I’m moving away from PLA.

Can you get 3DLAC in Japan? That's what I'm using with great success. Otherwise maybe try some hair sprays, that worked in 2011, too... :-D

3DLAC is hairspray with a different label, you can smell it... I use it too though as it is the easiest high strength hairspray to get.

Yeah, I always thought that, especially after seeing that the producer is a beauty company... :-D

Depending on your level of DIY-ness and willingness to handle powders, you could make some Super Goop. I've heard good things about it but haven't yet had enough bed adhesion issues to make it yet.

https://github.com/MakerBogans/docs/wiki/Printer-goop

I just have a layer of Cape hairspray, on a hardware store aluminium sheet, taped onto the moving down Z frame with Daiso acrylic foam tapes, on a RAMPS1.4 + SERVO42B modified i3-style Cartesian build, works for me.

High-hold hairspray will work wonders for you. I’ve been using it to print, including on glass, since 2014.

I've used thinned out real PVA glue (not polyurethane) for years.

Man, I’m jealous of those of you who have the skills to do an ICE/BEV conversion. I have this total baseless fantasy that when I retire, I will open a little boutique shop doing conversions of old ICE vehicles into BEVs. Sadly, I have none of the skills, connections, or talent for such a thing. But in another life, it’s something I could see myself getting a real kick out of for many, many years. Having the neighbourhood kids drift in and out, call me “Old Man”, learn a thing or two.

My dad used to rebuild and flip old Daimlers and MGs back in the day on our suburban front lawn in Australia. For reasons of space, gentrification, economics, labour market changes, technological shifts, etc, that’s sadly far less common than it used to be. Such a loss.

When you retire... Assuming you do, You can do anything. There is no magic Just practice. There is always a mechanic who needs space to work, and can help.

I’m sure they did. No evidence to suggest there was an intelligence failure, afaik. The failures are, on the evidence, entirely at the, shall we say, executive level.

You’re telling me that the orange guy did something out of spite and without careful consideration of what could happen? I’m shocked.

OK Computer (1997). Mezzanine (1998). New Forms (1997). Peak trip hop and drum and bass. I remember it being pretty great. But yeah, I was like 17, so …

Edit: commenter below with Underworld - 100%.

As long as you stay under the 1-hour caching TTL for your open threads, I guess your marginal cost is linear.

This is me on a weekday flicking between Ghostty tabs to enter “stand by” every ~45 mins.

Anthropic changed the cache TTL to five minutes, back in March.

Thanks, didn’t realise the API and Claude Code had different TTL.

Copilot showing up unbidden on my PRs was the final straw for me. Well, actually, the final straw was not being able to figure out how to turn it off.

We all saw this coming when the Microsoft acquisition happened. They constitutionally can’t not fuck their products up.

Notion: “Hold my beer.”

I’ve used cafetière off-and-on in the past but felt that I could never get the pressure high enough and the amount short enough. You’re saying that the Brikka produces enough pressure for an espresso? Is this something specific to the Brikka or will any Bialetti stovetop do? Can I use half or 1/3 as much water as you? Cafetière seem to have a minimum lower bound but I like it short short.

It is specific to the Brikka. They put a pressure valve in the column. The coffee must reach a certain pressure before it starts to flow.

You may try whatever amount of water you want... just don't let it burn in place!

There is a subtle balancing act between the quantity of coffee in the basket (how much headspace you keep) and the amount of water ( a ratio of 10:1 with the coffee -- before making the coffee -- yields good results for me).

So ... if you put less water, that means less coffee... which means more empty space in the basket, which modifies the dynamics.

Pro tip: use as little heat as possible to get the water to a gentle boil. Otherwise you might burn the coffee in the basket. Bad.

In short, you will have to experiment...

Okay very interesting. Thanks for the detailed answer. I looked into it a bit more[1], it sounds like the valve is producing 1.5 bar. A very nice stovetop for a moka, but probably not a good fit for me.

[1] https://www.reddit.com/r/Coffee/comments/15zabe/does_the_bia...