For my own dishwasher I’m using a mix of Potassium hydroxide (Potash), Sodium hypochlorite (Bleach) and Sodium tripolyphosphate (Phosphates).
This is strong stuff, so make sure hoses/tubes, seals and connections are compatible if anyone wants to try this.
Instead of rinse aid I’m using a 50% citric acid/water solution. The final rinse is at 85c or 185f. The stuff dries instantly. A built in fan/condensation system prevents moisture inside and outside the machine.
I’m using two commercial grade peristaltic pumps for the chemicals.
I have also considered an enzyme pre-wash; Protease and Amylase.
The diswasher is commercial grade, but the racks and operation is just like a normal household dishwasher.
Drinking glasses come out spotless. Rinse Aid is not necessary.
I hold them up to the sunlight for inspection and I see nothing.
I will try to make a video or write about this sometime :)
The feedback would be helpful and I care about people having an ideal dishwashing machine that operates with the least cognitive load.
Yes please share what country you’re in and what equipment you use? This is very interesting.
I’ve come to the conclusion that buying “consumer” or even “prosumer” appliances is a lost cause, all the brands use the same 3 white label Chinese manufacturers and you get the same quality no matter what you buy, you can expect to be shopping for a new appliance in <5 years time.
I’m hopeful that commercial appliances aren’t yet at that stage, you end up paying a significant premium but you save in time and lost effort when you don’t have to deal with buying a new one so soon.
> I’ve come to the conclusion that buying “consumer” or even “prosumer” appliances is a lost cause, all the brands use the same 3 white label Chinese manufacturers and you get the same quality no matter what you buy, you can expect to be shopping for a new appliance in <5 years time.
In general that's very true across industry now. For more information on this white labeling phenomenon this documentary is great:
Norway.
Asko DWC5926 (DWC5926W).
Seko PR-4 and PR-1.
This is the short version. There are some issues and fixes you should be aware of. Like how to fix a design fault at a circulation pump wire. There is also an easier way to rewire the machine from 3 phase to single phase if you’re doing that.
Generally the Asko machine is a unicorn.
You can also look at the Miele professional dishwashers that come with automatic dosing systems and sanitizing rinse.
I'd drop the bleach if your dishwasher has stainless steel interior walls. Chlorine is hostile to stainless steel, causing pits in the oxidised surface of the metal, resulting in corrosion.
>bleach and stainless steel
Thank you for pointing that out. I was worried about Bleach corroding stainless steel inside and outside the dishwasher. Bleach has serious issues related to being used in a dishwasher and in general. I can’t find good information about Bleach in my digitized dishwasher notes. I know that I paused until I had resolved these issues. Corrosion of stainless steel worried me the most. If I can’t find better notes or remember why I was convinced; then I will have to stop using Bleach.
Are you aware that if your dishwasher has a pre wash cycle before the main wash cycle; then your detergent will be wasted. ?
A pre wash cycle is common in european dishwashers.
Pre-Wash cycle ("Vorspühlen") is an additional button which would need to be in a depressed state for this short cycle to be additionally executed and fully exchange the water, but I never use it. I think the main cycle also does refresh a certain percentage of its water, I'm not sure about it. But just using one tab is not enough.
I buy the cheap ones from Aldi which are € 0.04 a piece. I use the machine 1.5 times a week, so that extra tab is ~ €1.40 a year.
Aaron is dead.
Wanderers in this crazy world,
we have lost a mentor, a wise elder.
Hackers for right, we are one down,
we have lost one of our own.
Nurturers, carers, listeners,
feeders, parents all,
we have lost a child.
Let us all weep.
I want to share some of my thought on soldering:
The best way to understand soldering is to think primarily in terms of surface tension or capillary action and intermetallic compounds.
You set it up correctly and apply heat so that fluid dynamics can finish the job.
The atoms get to where they are supposed to be. There is no technique or dexterity required with the soldering iron itself.
I would also recommend that you think of solder wire as a 2in1.
The flux core in the solder wire is helpful, but not the endgame.
Use extra flux from a flux pen or flux bottle that is compatible with the flux core in the solder wire.
For example: You can put a glob of solder on the tip of your soldering iron and just bring it in to the surface or joint.
If you have pre-applied flux on a clean surface or joint, the liquid solder will wick off the soldering iron and onto the surface by itself. Perfect every time. (Surface tension, capillary action.)
For manual hand soldering, the flux management is the only complicated part.
What flux to use? Do you have to clean it? How to clean it? Saponifiers, or IPA good enough? Compatible with the flux in the solder wire?
You must be sure to reach the activation temperature of all the flux on the board or it can corrode metals over time.
"No Clean" fluxes are really hard to clean without special saponifiers, I would avoid these fluxes.
Is the flux residue on the board still inert after it gets wet by accident or at high humidity?
There are also problems with high frequency circuits and No Cleans.
Water soluble fluxes require excellent process control. Even tiny defects in the PCB can cause failures if you use water soluble flux.
Read the datasheets and recommendations from the flux manufacturer.
Some fluxes are more easy going:
For you Americans I would recommend Kester 186 Flux-Pen and Kester 285 Sn63Pb37 RMA Flux-Cored Wire.
Do not use more flux than necessary, do not make a mess.
Use eye protection for this flux from Kester!
Soldering gets even more interesting with gold embrittlement (gold plating thickness and migration to the center of the IMC), tin whiskers, silver whiskers, etc.
There is much more to all of this if you want really high reliability.
I went deep down this rabbit hole once. Not a professional soldering guy. Just obsessive compulsive about high reliability design.
This is enough text for a post on HN :)
It is interesting that you benefit so much from Cabergoline. Are your problems also related to elevated Prolactin levels, Hyperprolactinemia?
Bromocriptine would be cheaper than Dostinex/Cabergoline.
I do not recommend anything in this comment.
If you benefit from a fight-or-flight state, the extra focus and pain filtering, then Atomoxetine/Strattera or Vyvanse/Amphetamine could be worth it for the extra Norepinephrine (and Dopamine).
Emsam (Irreversible MAOI, transdermal administration) and Moclobemide (Reversible MAOI) are also interesting in general.
DO NOT combine these MAOIs with Cabergoline or the other drugs mentioned above. You could die from the drug interaction!
Besides that, the benefit and side effect profiles are excellent.
The dietary restrictions are not as severe as with the classic MAOIs.
I do not recommend anything in this comment.
You can buy Cabergoline in bulk from Alibaba (China).
Edit: Purity can be a problem. Testing is necessary.
This may or may not be a legal option where you live.
Ignore the listed price and quantities. Use common sense to find serious sellers.
You communicate with the seller to learn the actual price and shipping cost for the quantity that you want to buy.
If the Minimum Order Quantities (MOQ) are much more than you need, then negotiate down in size and throw more money at the problem.
In Norway we have ASKO Professional. They are built for commercial use.
In Norway they can be bought at the big consumer electronics shops.
I plan to buy their cheapest commercial dishwasher DWCBI231.W during Black Friday in November. They also have the industrial DWCFS5936.S
I am very pleased with their washing machine WMC743PS.
It has shock absorbers. The drain pump makes the most noise. This machine is not afraid of unstable loads such a single wool sweater. It is fascinating to look at the door getting tossed around while the the rest of the machine is stable.
In most consumer machines this heavy wool sweater would come out soaking wet as the safety features of the control board would stop the machine.
Check out the door seal on ASKO compared to normal washing machines. It is very hygienic unlike the common deep rubber seal that will get moldy over time.
I managed to get it for ~1700 USD.
The ASKO Professional vented tumble dryer does not reverse the spin direction, so I got the Miele T 8302 vented tumble dryer instead. I toss the exhaust hose out a window, temporarily. It had to be vented, non-negotiable :)
Instead of rinse aid I’m using a 50% citric acid/water solution. The final rinse is at 85c or 185f. The stuff dries instantly. A built in fan/condensation system prevents moisture inside and outside the machine. I’m using two commercial grade peristaltic pumps for the chemicals. I have also considered an enzyme pre-wash; Protease and Amylase. The diswasher is commercial grade, but the racks and operation is just like a normal household dishwasher.
Drinking glasses come out spotless. Rinse Aid is not necessary. I hold them up to the sunlight for inspection and I see nothing.