I think this comment references something many people don't realize: Even items that say "Ships from
Amazon, Sold by Amazon" could be counterfeit, because the inventory from third party sellers is co-mingled with Amazon's own inventory.
If you see "Ships from Amazon, Sold by RandomCompany" you might worry about counterfeits. But the "Sold by Amazon" item might also have been sourced from (or counterfeited by) "RandomCompany".
I began noticing this about seven or eight years ago when the oil filters I bought changed from official ones to obvious counterfeits (certain pieces were missing entirely + media was much thinner than the real ones). Had to switch to a local auto parts supplier to guarantee the correct part.
How did you notice that the media was thinner? On passenger vehicles at least, the filter media is in a stainless steel cup that precludes examination.
BMW at least has the media completely exposed. There is no canister like you might find on Honda oil filters. Basically on BMWs the oil filter housing is permanent. I don't think it's a BMW specific thing. Might be a German car thing?
Toyota Tundra filters (at least) are the ‘innie’ pieces, and the cup is a removable/reusable part on the vehicle. A counterfeit would be pretty obvious unless it was at the microscopic level.
It does happen with Amazon UK, or at least has within the last year because I've twice had it, first time with a microsd card, second time with an ssd.
They obviously replaced it no problem but it highlighted they were either still mixing stock or were using a dodgy supplier themselves.
For what it's worth, been buying from Amazon for the past 15 years or so, and not once received a counterfeit product. Granted, I still don't like they they mix up their inventory, but I think it's a smaller problem than people make it to be. Most people are buying household supplies off of Amazon; that's not really a category that gets affected by counterfeits.
B&H is a hidden gem. I came across them because I needed a camera, but they sell lots of other stuff and their sales team consists of actual humans who have physically used the products they sell, and a supply chain they actually control. In the past, I’ve talked to a real human there who:
* verified the un-advertised compatibility between an accessory and the device I was buying it for (hours of googling had not been able to confirm this for me)
* explained their personal experience with both the Sony and Canon cameras I was considering
* nearly price-matched another vendor’s sale on a large purchase of Dell monitors
They have their own warehouses with real physical stock ordered directly from suppliers, (no drop shipping and no third party sellers.) One order I received even came with a hand written note signed by the salesman who’d help me select it. A nice touch, but impossible for an operation at Amazon scale.
These days B&H is my preferred vendor for PCs+components, AV gear, SMB network equipment.
In my experience, desperate people cut the cords off of perfectly good appliances to sell the copper as scrap. Copper wire fetches something like ~$1/lb as scrap. It's infuriating when they cut it right at the connection to the appliance, making it too time consuming to test.
A label of "Broken" or "Works" or "Missing X" is so much more helpful for appliances left out.
Good point, if it was just sitting by the curb, a metal scraper might have just cut the cord instead of taking the whole thing. I've noticed that different scrapers have different criteria for what they'll take. Some will take the whole thing and break it down or just sell it as unsorted metal and others are more particular and will pick through and just take what they know they can get the most/easiest money for.
This solves a huge annoyance I've had: swap a Bluetooth keyboard/mouse between multiple laptops, without manually un0paring / re-pairing. I have a personal "hot desk" at home. I want to be able to plug in any laptop to the large monitor, and have the wireless keyboard/mouse on that desk instantly work. And when I leave the desk with my laptop, I don't want that keyboard/mouse connected anymore.
This has been impossible so far, because even USB bluetooth dongles still require each host computer to pair (and un-pair) with the keyboard/mouse.
I am going to try your solution, and I will plug the USB input into the large monitor on my desk. Then any laptop that plugs into that monitor should have access to the wireless keyboard/mouse. Thank you for creating and sharing this!
My pleasure, @reeddavid! I’m excited that you might find a use for it. Just a quick note: you may need an external power source for the RPi if you’re switching between devices frequently.
One popular request I’ve received is for certain RPi models (those with multiple USB ports as host) to act as a KVM, allowing them to serve as a USB host for multiple PCs simultaneously with easy switching—perhaps through shortcuts or physical buttons on the RPi. I’ll need to give it more thought, but it seems feasible with minimal changes. I already have some ideas for better state management for the devices!
many Bluetooth USB dongles have NVRAM, you can write the link key for a device (eg the keyboard or mouse) into the NVRAM and then when connecting, the dongle doesn't ask the Host computer for the key. I have used this to dual boot with a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse in the past.
I think the technique would be: pair in machine A (A has a link key). Then, pair again in machine B with the same dongle. Write that key into NVRAM, and machine A considers the device paired but it never gets asked for the key so just works if you plug the dongle into either machine. I don't know how the monitor thing works, does it act as a USB hub? I guess you can just leave the Bluetooth dongle plugged in there..
I have never a seen a Bluetooth adaptor without the capability. Currently this laptop has an "Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 8265" device which reports it can store 16 keys in the NVRAM. I have used the btkey(1) program on NetBSD to read and write keys, but it is basically speaking directly directly to the adaptor so should be possible under any OS where that is possible.
Fun & cursed fact, the ArchWiki has a rather long section on dual boot pairing. Pair in Windows or Mac then painstakingly extract various bits of pairing info from the OS and toss it into Linux, so you can dual-boot & keep the pairing. https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/Bluetooth#Dual_boot_pairing
I've always wondered how feasible it would be to copy Bluetooth pairing information. This particular series of hacks seems to rest at least somewhat on it being the same Bluetooth host adapter. (But maybe the host side can spoof, trade IDs with the other device?)
Ideally I'd love to centrally and dynically manage what devices of mine are paired with what system... I think that might be technically feasible, as long as I'm not trying to pair multiple things with a single bt adapter.
I've had many BT mouse and keyboards which supported multiple pairing profiles on the device. When I want to switch the device I just press a button on the mouse or keyboard and it's connected almost instantly.
Throwing more complexity at a simple problem might be "fun" from a nerd's POV, and, TBH, building this USB device sounds fun. But entirely unneeded while introducing more points of failure.
A simple solution to your problem:
1. Get a monitor with a built-in USB hub (nearly all of them?). Consider getting a USB-C monitor to reduce the number of cables to 1.
2. Don't use Bluetooth (for a keyboard, for multiple reasons, like needing the keyboard available in early boot). Get a keyboard/mouse with an external USB dongle like Logitech's Unify or Bolt, Corsair's SLIPSTREAM, or any of the other billion options that exist.
3. Plug keyboard/mouse into monitor, plug random computers into monitor. Bam. Unified mouse and keyboard without any pairing.
So your solution to solving one tiny flaw with the GP's otherwise-working setup is to... throw away their monitor, keyboard, and mouse, and spend lots of money (many times more money than an RPi-with-a-hat costs) to replace them?
All because you're offended by the complexity of... what?
• The idea of a device that acts as a stable host for Bluetooth devices, while presenting as a wired USB hub to an upstream USB host controller?
• The particular implementation here, which is a hacky proof-of-concept of the idea (and which could, in practice, be reduced to a single chip embedded into any USB-C-dock product if there was demand)?
• The entire concept of Bluetooth?
---
Also, I would like to point out that, given that this is HN, it's more than even odds that the GP:
• likely has multiple monitors (so using a monitor with a built-in hub is likely untenable);
• and also, that their laptops are probably Macbooks, and their mouse and keyboard are therefore very likely a Magic Keyboard and Magic Trackpad [for which there is no 1:1 substitute that does non-Bluetooth wireless while still having the same level of macOS support/integration];
• and that, given what they've said, they're likely already using a Thunderbolt hub to talk to those multiple monitors + all their USB devices through "one cable" (and all they really want is to add one more USB connection to this dock to make it act like a "Bluetooth dock" too);
• and that they likely have a big deep sit-stand desk, that they'd be cluttering/making it hard to put things on the 90% of the free "middle space" on, if they had to run actual wires from the keyboard and mouse over to the dock.
I did this for a while but was a bit annoyed with the delay since it "unplugs" and "plugs" in the mouse/keyboard each time you hit the button. What I ended up doing is buying a used KVM switch with DDM (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_device_mapping) which allows pretty much instant switching.
Be careful with these though, a lot of USB switches (most readily available ones, even) aren't wired correctly and can result in current flowing from one computer to the other.
The reviews suggest this $250 toaster isn't any better:
"was hoping it lasted longer & would be better quality but was disappointed"
"All the coils do no not glow and It toasts unevenly"
"one side stops working after 6 months or so. I’ve gone through three of these"
"Bought two of these toasters both stopped working"
"Have to replace this toaster about once a year, one side will always stop working"
"Lasted me about a month or so and it no longer works".
"Died so quickly!"
I think this is a perfect example of the problem. There is a market for $250 toasters, but even for that price you can't buy a reliable toaster.
The site has other well reviewed toasters at similar prices, I picked that one because it was exactly the price being discussed.
Either way, the bathtub curve of product failure still applies no matter the price point.
Bear in mind that people on this site are using toasters at duty cycles hundreds to thousands of times higher than home users. 6 months of commercial use of one of these toasters could very easily be a lifetime of use for a single home.
The recent outrage over RealPage seems misplaced, at least here in Seattle where demand for housing is so much higher than supply. There are so many restrictions on new housing. We're considered a liberal city, but plenty of our residents have really conservative views around housing and work against increasing housing supply.
It seems to me that RealPage simply helps landlords assess the market price for apartments. Sort of like how "Redfin Estimate" and Zillow's "Zestimate" help homeowners assess the market value of their house. The reason houses and apartments are expensive is because the market rate is so high.
My test for whether RealPage is anticompetitive would be: does RealPage induce multiple landlords to withhold apartments from the market in order to intentionally restrict supply and drive up rents? (Or, does RealPage just clue them in to how high the market rents are?)
I disagree. Realpage is essentially turning a competitive market (multiple buyers, multiple sellers) into a quasi-monopoly market (multiple buyers,one seller). Econ 101 tells you the result of that is higher prices, lower quantity, less incentive to improve or innovate.
State policies may indeed be already limiting supply, realpage makes things worse.
> We're considered a liberal city, but plenty of our residents have really conservative views around housing and work against increasing housing supply.
you can't create a system with politically "liberal" rules ("let's have the government control the economy") and then say it's "conservatives" who are holding things up.
the politically conservative position would be let owners of property do what they want with it, including developing it into more housing if they want.
not saying one system is better than the other, just saying you're simply using liberal and conservative to mean good and bad.
Based on some of the follow-ups you've posted here, it sounds like the crucial factor is the 1200€ authorization and capture from PayPal.
With your initial dispute of "order not received", they pointed to the 1200€ credit and said, "here's what you ordered". This credit does indeed disprove any claim of "I didn't get anything for the 1200€ I was charged".
The problem is you don't want to receive any order; you want there to be no order at all, and no exchange of 1200€.
Which version of PayPal checkout did they use? I think there's a standard PayPal checkout, where you complete the transaction at a PayPal-hosted page. And there's an "express" PayPal checkout, where you login to a PayPal-hosted popup to complete some initial authorization, then complete the checkout process on the merchant-hosted site.
I think there would have been some point where you authorized a 1200€ payment on a PayPal-hosted site, do you recall that step? I think that step is critical to your claim here that they should return your money.
You mentioned "They had authorization for recurring payments, so they pulled those 1200 without my interaction." And also, "at no point that amount was shown to me" How did they get that authorization? Could you reproduce the checkout flow up to the point of PayPal authorization to see if the 1200 amount is shown in the PayPal-hosted part of the checkout flow, and whether it's hidden in the merchant-hosted portion of the flow?
I've noticed a problem when I try to buy tools (especially automotive tools): The only tools available locally are cheap and crappy. I know they are crappy because half the reviews state that it didn't even work once.
But I can't pay more to get a higher quality version of the tool, because the store doesn't even bother stocking a higher quality version.
If I plan ahead, I can shop online and find a quality tool. But what I really want is the option to buy a quality tool during a weekend project.
Looks great, I'll give it a try for my next scraping project. My favorite of all these types of tools was kimonolabs (http://kimonolabs.com) before they were acquired and shut down.
When I found pine nuts for only $16/lb at Trader Joe's, I thought I'd hit the jackpot. I made pesto, and even snacked on the pine nuts while I cooked.
Then I had a terrible, 2-week long experience with 'pine mouth'.
Everything tasted awful: coffee, muffins, cereal, meat, vegetables – even water tasted bitter. And during the first few days, before I realized what was happening, I threw away tons of perfectly safe food that I thought had spoiled.
I never found out how common pine mouth was, but I was really upset that the risk wasn't better communicated.
If you see "Ships from Amazon, Sold by RandomCompany" you might worry about counterfeits. But the "Sold by Amazon" item might also have been sourced from (or counterfeited by) "RandomCompany".